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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 46 total)
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  • #61464
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    Leash Training:
    the leash does not get attached unless the dog is sitting in front being good – keep putting it away – sit down and pick up a mag then try again – the message will get through.

    the walk does not happen unless the dog is where you want her/him to be – no voice – just stop – s/he will stand and pull – let her/him – when s/he self corrects walk forward – with the foot nearest the dog first (should be on your left) you need a nice long lead for this hold the lead in your right hand and use the left hand as a signal down the lead only – no pulling. when s/he moves out of position then stop – look at the sky or something – no voice at all – follow me – s/he has to realise that the reward – ie walk is only going to happen when s/he is in the right place – with an older dog who has learned to be naughty on the leash it can take about 2 weeks to get this – and you might not go more than 3 yards on the first time out but eventually the brain cells will kick in. if it fails go home. try later.

    #91373
    Daemonia
    Member

    Oooooo thanks, Bev. I have been kinda doing a bit of it. Well, at least the stopping and looking into the sky. The only problem is, that ‘madam’ then doesnt get the exercise she needs as it takes us about an hour to just go round the block, which results in her being a nuisance round the house. Vicious circle! However, she is very good when we start for the walk, as I can open the front door and she will just stand there and wait for the lead being put on. So, should I do the stopping and standing every time we go out? I suppose so, otherwise the message doesnt get through, does it?

    Also, when we took her out for a trial walk at the dogs home, there was no pulling on the lead at all. Why did she deteriorate as soon as she was ‘home’?

    #91374
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    far better to crack it all at once – so yeah stick with it and exercise her at home – in the garden, hunt the toy in the house etc. this is where free shaping comes into it’sown because it totally wears them out as they have to use their brains so much they get mentally exhausted.

    the criteria rule can work the opposite way in ‘anxiety/threat/fear situations’ thats is why she behaved at the dog’s home – that needed rewarding big time but without re-enforcing the fear factor.

    #91375
    Daemonia
    Member

    I am only just getting round to starting to read about freeshaping, and I must admit I dont understand a lot of it. I am so worried that I do things wrong that I dare not even start. Our garden is not very good for exercising, mainly concrete, which is why I take her to the park at least once a day (it’s only 5 minutes up the road). And she really does seem to need the burning off the energy. She is much happier after it. Is that so wrong?

    #91376
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    have a read of help! he’s driving me mad – the full topic.

    if you allow a dog to carry on behaving in way you don’t want then you are rewarding the dog for behaving that way. the more success the dog has in not learning/doing the desired behaviours the more the dog wont learn or do the desired behaviours and what is more will move that success onto another behaviour and so on… until there is no management at all.

    #91377
    Aurora
    Member

    Hi, i am still having the terrible problem with mine..when the leeds come out they go MAD, once the leeds are on i am draged out the door and they continue it. Its awful and i no its my fault for letting it go on. However i am going to start what you have sugested tonite with one dog at a time because its putting me off walking them and i used to love it. When i get to the Airfield i make them sit and take the leeds off and they love it and do always come bake. its just on the leed thats very bad! If i do all that properly…and go back to taking the 3 off them out together, will they stick to it or go mad again to see who can be in front??

    Aurora x

    #91378
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    if you do this along side the location training (parker please snd it to aurora still trying to get this thing set up) you will get the close/heel on cue faster – then they should be cued to the leash walking with only occasional re-enforcement.  they will walk better in pack order – pack manager on the outside then the next in line then the lowest next to you – you may find your pack manager will want to be just a littl in front of the other 2 but No Pulling allowed!

    #91379
    Lisa33
    Member

    I have been re-training Emmy on the lead.  Normally she has a Stop pull harness which was a doG send at the time of use.  But now she has her stitches under her arm and not allowed off the lead walks I have had to take for an hour walk around the streets on lead and collar.

    Because she has clocked on that she only has a collar on she was an absolute nightmare!  I stuck to stopping and starting and apart from looking a donut!  it did get through to her (thank doG!)  I actually wanted to finally get her off her harness eventually but never got round to it :-[ so her having her stitches in has paid off for something I spose 😉

    She still thinks she can pull at times, especially if she sees another dog or she knows she coming up to the park!  but apart from this it’s only been 3 days on the lead and she is starting to understand where she should be 🙂  Phew!! ;D

    #91380
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    thats why i say that things like halti’s and harnesses are management aids – the only time i like to see one used is when a working dog pup – gundog for example – is being trained to work pop gun or seek

    well done – it takes about 3 weeks to get an older dog really fluent xx

    #91381
    Anonymous
    Guest

    [quote author=kizkiznobite link=topic=2858.msg32782#msg32782 date=1145617322]
    (parker please snd it to aurora still trying to get this thing set up)
    [/quote]

    Done 😉

    #91382
    Lisa33
    Member

    Thanx Kiz!  thre weeks huh :-\  Will stick to it….promise! 😉

    I know what you mean about the harness and did feel a bit of a cheat and a cop out when I got it but it did save my aching extra long arms! ::)  She never pulls with hubby coz he always has the strength to stop her.

    But now she is actually responding because I’m putting the effort in so will keep at it! ;D It does feel good when she responds (until she sees a cat, dog or park!)

    #91383
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    [quote author=Lisa33 link=topic=2858.msg32873#msg32873 date=1145640472]
    Thanx Kiz!  thre weeks huh :-\  Will stick to it….promise! 😉

    I know what you mean about the harness and did feel a bit of a cheat and a cop out when I got it but it did save my aching extra long arms! ::)  She never pulls with hubby coz he always has the strength to stop her.

    But now she is actually responding because I’m putting the effort in so will keep at it! ;D It does feel good when she responds (until she sees a cat, dog or park!)
    [/quote]

    then cue the LEAVE IT – starting at criteria 1 and building it up

    #91384
    Lisa33
    Member

    Yes, I do ‘leave it’ she responds well to that when she is off the lead.  Because I had a problem with her for a while with other large dogs after she was attacked 🙁  She would just run at them with a strange yelping noise.  She has done really well lately when I tell her ‘leave it’  it seems she is getting a bit more confidence back in her. 

    Still, it’s the GSD’s she can’t quite come to terms with so when in the field if I see one I either turn the way so she don’t see or call her back and put her on the lead.  Trouble is if I keep doing that how will I know she has got out of the habit? :-\

    #91385
    kizkiznobite
    Member

    it is not a habit – it is a behavioural response – and you wont unless it is tested – the cue isnt fluent and reliable if it not a ‘martini’ so take it back to criteria 3 at least and build it up

    #91386
    Lisa33
    Member

    Will do, thanx 😉

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