Forum Replies Created
June 2, 2011 at 11:56 am in reply to: How Your Dog Learns, the training theory we offer before going out on the field #78979
A great idea but you do need to get your learning theory definitions correct.
By definition, reinforcement results in an increase in behaviour, whether that reinforcement is positive or negative.
Any decrease in behaviour is created, by definition, by punishment (whether positive or negative) or by extinction.
It is practically impossible to utilise only positive reinforcement. Again, by definition, if a positive reinforcement is not provided then negative punishment has taken place. Similarly, in order to apply a negative reinforcement, positive punishment must have been applied first in order for it to be removed.
Use of ‘no’ is not negative reinforcement. If it’s effective, it’s a conditioned positive punisher.
Oh dear, just got to the pack leader bit! You might need to update your understanding of this concept as it applies to dogs. It doesn’t really have any place in learning theory.
Spooky…I’ve literally just come back from a demo by one of the VTIUK staff of this imaging. We’ve taken pictures of each other (of course ;D) and looked at pictures of one of the horses on our yard (at Bishop Burton College) who is lame but vets haven’t yet worked out exactly what the problem is.
Great images, clearly some inflamation in one leg compared to the other and a fairly good idea of which tendons, muscles, etc. are inflamed in the hock area.
[quote author=Val link=topic=15227.msg275795#msg275795 date=1277132272]
No they are just brighter that the owner and more than up to taking on trainers.
;D I know! ;D
[quote author=Val link=topic=15227.msg275790#msg275790 date=1277117628]…you got them all following you around for a click and treat[/quote]
So they must have been reinforced for that behaviour.
I wouldn’t go for teaching ‘bark’ either since the dogs are already well-practised at barking and it is one of their preferred behaviours…I’d just teach ‘quiet’. There are loads of ways to teach ‘quiet’ with the clicker…this is just one way:
Start indoors with one dog, clicker in hand, treats in a pot/bag within easy reach but not on your person, relax on the sofa with a book or magazine you can pretend to read. Create a noise to make the dog bark (knocking the table or wall often works) but do not react: say nothing, do nothing, carry on reading your book.
Just wait…and wait…and wait…until eventually the barking ceases. Wait for three seconds (count in your head “one banana, two banana, three banana”) then click, grab a treat from the table and give it to the dog.
If your dog barks at any point while you’re counting, re-set your count to zero and start again – you want three seconds of silence before clicking.
Give your dog a few minutes to settle then repeat the exercise. With several repetitions, you should find that your dog quietens sooner. When your dog is only giving a few barks before shutting up, you can add a ‘quiet’ cue but pick a new word that you haven’t used before (since your dogs probably think that ‘QUIET!’ means “BARK!”.
Work through one dog at a time (four combinations) , then in pairs (six combinations), then threes (four combinations), then all four (one combination).
P.S. The use of positive punishers (e.g. rattle cans) is contrary to the philosophy and mechanics of clicker training.
…and like all collies, they are very sound sensitive and often find sudden loud noises rather scary!
…and Shelties were bred to bark: it’s part of their normal herding behaviour repertoire!
…and the OP has already attempted two forms of noise-based punishment without effect!
Gwensway, you need to teach your dogs a ‘quiet’ cue – just yelling ‘quiet’ at them won’t work since they don’t speak English!
There are many ways to teach a quiet cue but, since you’ve already been using a clicker (although it’s not clear what for), why not use it again for this? I’d start with the puppy since she hasn’t had quite so much practice at shouting yet and, if possible, at a time when you have only the puppy in the room.
That’s what I thought too, Corgi shaped but Sheltie colouring…anyone got any Swedish Vallhund pixs?
MarionAugust 6, 2009 at 11:37 am in reply to: plastic trays (naturediet/nature’s harvest) problem with recycling #87225
Why not re-use them yourself? Give ’em a good wash and stick them in the fridge/freezer with your leftovers and some cling film, they might make good seed-trays or slug traps, water bowls for the garden birds, containers for organising all the little bits-and-pieces that end up in everyone’s ‘junk’ drawers, etc.
(How sad am I?) :embarrass:
It might be worth her contacting DogAID. They are a relatively new assistance dog organisation that concentrates on helping owners train their own dogs to carry out tasks appropriate to them.
I’ve dabbled a little with it in one of my more advanced classes…everyone seemed to enjoy it because it’s got some degree of structure for the more advanced handlers without being as stuffy and rigid as competitive obedience.
It sounds like you’re handling the situation pretty well at the moment, especially if you’re seeing some improvement. A trick with the out-of-control off-lead dogs is to shout that yours are “probably still infectious”! That usually makes the owner shift pretty quickly although you might get some verbal abuse…but who cares?
I think Dolores Palmer is fairly near to you. Look here:
Or there may be someone in an adjoining county…sorry, I don’t know the geography of that area too well.
Unfortunately, there are lots of people out there who do like CMs methods…most of them know very little about dog behaviour and training though!
It sounds like your dogs are scared and anxious on walks and are redirecting that into aggressive behaviour towards each other. However, you do need someone knowledgable and experienced to assess what’s going on by meeting your dogs (not by seeing your dogs have a go at each other though).
Take one ripe avocado…eat half, smush the rest on your face!
And surely that’s what the experts associated with the magazine get paid for.
I’m happy to make suggestions on a public forum in some cases but not for someone else to make money from them. As a professional, I’m not sure that my insurance would cover that! I wonder if the magazine’s professional indemnity covers advice from non-experts. Now, if a magazine wants to pay for my expertise, I might give it some consideration.